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Nonetheless, it was a success, and today Madrid is a vast,
predominantly modern city, with a population of some three million and
growing. The journey in - through a stream of concrete-block suburbs - isn't
pretty, but the streets at the heart of the city are a pleasant surprise, with
pockets of medieval buildings and narrow, atmospheric alleys, dotted with the
oddest of shops and bars, and interspersed with eighteenth-century Bourbon
squares. By comparison with the historic cities of Spain - Toledo, Salamanca,
Sevilla, Granada - there may be few sights of great architectural interest,
but the monarchs did acquire outstanding picture collections, which formed the
basis of the Prado museum. This has long ensured Madrid a place on the
European art tour, and the more so since the 1990s arrival - literally down
the street - of the Reina Sofía and Thyssen-Bornemisza
galleries, state-of-the-art homes to fabulous arrays of modern Spanish
painting (including Picasso's Guernica ) and European and American
masters
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